Wednesday, August 27, 2008

Schempp-hirth For Sale

The wild child

Domaine les Enfants Sauvages
Nicholas et 11 510 Carolin Bantlin
Fitou Fitou


on the A9 between Narbonne and Perpignan, I drive from exit Leucate and a minute later we are on the road No. 9 We have a meeting in Fitou 5 km. Only 5 kilometers to come to Fitou, 5 miles, we did not find funny, 5 kilometers far too large billboards on the roadside, all cry aloud, "wine tasting and sales." Fitou looks a bit run down from à la "cheap tourism." That does not surprise me, yesterday I did some research on the Internet and the results do not impress and delight. Writes as the Regional Directorate of the landscape in the Languedoc-Roussillon in "Landscapes in the Aude: the highlights": "the level of the A9 motorway and the highway number 9 is determined in part by the wine. The current crisis of wine in a reduction of vines result, this is also encouraged by a premium (about 6,000 € per hectare, 2007). " Another example: on the website of the Municipality Fitou find information about the wine cooperative (the wine cellar of wine from Fitou and the link to it (www.cavefitou.com) This information is signed by the mayor of Fitou, so they are trustworthy.. Nichtsdestoweniger gives us the link information on "Building a bird cage," "Online Dating" and "Health and Beauty." This mayor is not alone with his bizarre website. The Society of the newspaper Midi Libre (leader for southern France, www.guidesdumidi.com) tells of a syndicate to defend the "Cru du Fitou" and leads us to the side-www.cru fitou.org. There we find information about "Fitness Wear", "Aerobic Fitness" and "Keep Fit". Fitou seems to be a real paradise. Nevertheless, we have come for the Garden of Eden. Ie, Nicholas and Carol Bantlin promised to show us their paradise, which was at our meeting on the organic trade fair "Millesime Bio 2008".

Paradise
It is not difficult, the home of Nicholas and Caroline Bantlin related to, "domain of the Wild Children, even the mayor makes advertised. He has let up signs so you can find better wine cellar, including a sign to the "wild children, organic farming." After several minutes, then we are already at the gates of the domain and see again the two young Germans Nicholas and Carol Bantlin. As with the last meeting, they are full of energy and lead us quickly into their paradise. In Fitou are their home and their wine cellar, their paradise is located 8 km away. I suggest to go with my car there. Impossible, the paradise is accessible only by jeep, so Nicholas can the Land Rover. We leave the city and after a few kilometers we turn on a runway. Step by step we leave civilization and eventually reach the "paradise" of Nicholas and Caroline Bantlin: an austere beauty, dry hills interspersed with colorful vineyards. I do not habitable building, a shed for farm equipment and a ruin. You are right, it is a paradise, but a very simple paradise. There is no running water, no electricity and no telephone. But they still work here.


Les enfants sauvages: Nicholas Bantlin

to olive and fruit trees are planted, they built the old walls again, they have cleared the way, they took care of the vineyards, they graze sheep, they have nice covered picnic area built-in short, they worked really here. Why two young German is such a remote place?

your career
She is an architect and he has taken over the family business from his father. They had the idea to buy a holiday home in southern France. Their search began in Fitou 1999, and anyone of them to the sheepfold told here above, which was for sale. You have visited the place and they were as if struck by lightning. So they bought their paradise, ie the building and 7.5 acres of land. The land consisted mainly vineyards, so they have made a second decision: they have become winemakers. That was complicated, two years of preparatory work were necessary, they had to organize their departure from Germany and they had to renovate the house they bought in Fitou. Yes, they needed a house in Fitou, because paradise was not suited for a life with two children. During these two years, Carol tries to training as a winemaker in Germany to make, that was a disaster. Since then she has educated himself with books such as "The wine, from heaven to earth" by Nicolas Joly. Nicholas was already followers of anthroposophy. Consequently, it was clear they were working biodynamic. In early 2001 they left Germany to finally settle in Fitou.
The first two years they were members of the cooperative of Salses le Chateau. Carolin 2003 starts an agricultural training in Rivesaltes.


Les enfants sauvages: Carol Bantlin

your internship, they will not join the winemakers Olivier Pithon. He has even looked at our vineyards and said that her 're crazy, why do not you make your own wine? ". We said we would have liked but we still lack so many things: knowledge, experience, a wine cellar, a wine, in short - everything. Three days later came a call from him and he said that he has created in his wine cellar a bit of room for us there and we could make our own wine. That was perfect, that was great to make wine with him, with all his good advice. But on the other hand, it was difficult also. Olivier Pithon lives 35 km away. So we have hired a refrigerated truck to transport the grapes. In the beginning we had to go every day and that was difficult with our two young children. In fact, 2003 was a hellish year for us, we were always at our limit. I was every day at school and came home at night, I could only work on weekends in the vineyard. Then there were money problems. We have therefore started again round belts for furniture manufacture, as Nicholas had made in Germany. In the basement we have set up the machine every morning and 5-7 we worked there. We then had breakfast with the kids and I went to school and Nicholas in the vineyard. »

The school
Carol has done their training in Rivesaltes. What has she learned about organic farming? Nothing, we have only talked about a reasonable fight, that we have learned how chemicals are used and in quantities that are more or less should be "reasonable." I have listened to but not included. The same was true of the biodynamic cultivation, it was not there. In our class had 20 students, all adults, people my age and one of them built in already organic. For others it was very interesting and they have visited us, our vineyards visited and we talked about organic and biodynamic farming. For them it was all new territory. Even our teacher was very interested in our project. He has never previously a biological estate Viewed from up close. For us it was the first time he has even brought us a bunch of nettles from the garden of his parents. »

Nicholas and Carol Bantlin and Fitou
and who are interested in the winery in Fitou for organic farming? "They laughed at us a bit because wine and organic, that does not work, you have to fight the weeds, it must be injected. Nevertheless, there was a winery in Fitou, Mr Fabre, who has supported us and helped. Thanks to him we never had real problems with the other wineries, not even when we have our own wine produced and sold. Sure we have our wine growers Wines can taste, they were very friendly, they have made us compliments, he is very good, excellent, they were really surprised. They say that our wines are very good but neither the old nor the young change their behavior. »

The crisis in Fitou
Change winery in Fitou not. This is a shame, because the crisis in Fitou continues. "The price of a vineyard with quality wine from Fitou (AOC) currently costs 5 to 10 thousand € per hectare, which is nothing compared with other regions (on average costs of 1 hectare of vineyard quality wine around 80 thousand €), it is not much when one considers the premium to be paid by 5 thousand €. The old ones will stop and the young do not take, no one wants to buy vineyards. In the cooperative, it has become narrow, the barrels are full, the wine is selling poorly and the wine growers get paid almost nothing, currently 30 cents per liter. For yourself because there is nothing left. But still nothing changes. The quality and quantity remain the same. Better would be a reduced amount and increased quality. »

Wines
On the domain of the Wild Child, the yield is not very high. You have 10 hectares of vineyards and 8.5 hectares can be harvested. On average, they harvest 20 hectoliters per hectare. And Nicholas and Carol Bantlin want to prove that this makes a difference. In fact, they make us no choice, we have to try their wines, Cool Moon, Bouche du Soleil Enfant Sauvage and the Roi Lézards. We start with Cool Moon (cooler moon), there are 2,000 bottles a year of this white wine, made by a craftsman and an architect. "There you see the barrels. Each barrel is a a bit a different taste and if I take all the barrels together, then there is something very, very complex. » The result is certainly successful. I admire this wine, especially that the taste for so long still in the mouth is maintained. I'm not the only one. "This wine is selling very well despite its price, it is the most expensive of our wines. »
The second bottle is a rosé. It is light, fruity, fresh, and thanks to exogenous yeast it has an aroma of citrus and English sweets. This is their Bouche du Soleil (opening to the sun). "A good rosé is the most difficult to manufacture. You take a glass and try on and then you say "wow, super, tomorrow he is in the bottle." The next morning, you try on again and you say yuck, "what is that? » Nevertheless, they succeeded. I really do think the area taste again and when I close my eyes I see her little paradise to me. The third bottle is
Enfant Sauvage (Wild Child), Carignan and Grenache in concrete casks. I like him, not hard, fresh, light, stands out enough acidity, a wine in which no factor.


Les enfants sauvages: the large barrel

The fourth bottle of Lézards Roi (King of the lizards), it is aged in barrels. The large barrel with 3,000 liters is brand new. The wine is therefore a wooden nose that is ubiquitous but non-aggressive tannins, a wine for intellectuals, a wine that makes you think. After
This session shows us some of Carolin canister of about 20 liters, this is their first attempt to produce a mild red wine. It was a small amount, too small for the wine, so Nicholas has pressed the grapes with his hands and feet. She fills the glasses. It is a mild sweet wine without being a wine where you can dream of mousse au chocolat, or think of apple pie with a dash of cinnamon, it is too good.


Les enfants sauvages: the canister

The sale
"In France we find our wines in only two wine merchants in Montpellier and Perpignan and we work with 2 restaurants. In This year we have not found a wine merchant in Brittany. We have the impression that it is difficult to place on the French wine market. More difficult still produce for 2 German, the French wine. » Why? Perhaps because of its website, its virtual business card. The site is well designed, attractive design, bright colors, easy to navigate and trilingual. So, however, shows the French side marked linguistic deficits and sometimes appear even the German text. Here the harsh verdict of my daughter, my personal adviser: "The spelling, word choice and expression are poorly and inadequately."
"For us it is easier to sell abroad, since we have the advantage that we speak good English and German. We export 90%, we are working with Germany, the USA, Belgium and Great Britain. In Germany, we organize wine tastings in the manner of "Tupperware parties", we will show slides and tell our story, we do a wine tasting and so we sell well, we sell an average of 40 cases in the evening. The sale is even better since 2007, mainly because of Nicolas Joly. »

Nicolas Joly Nicolas Joly
, Winzer (Coulée de Serrant), writer (" The wine, "between heaven and earth and "wine, vineyard and Biodynamics"), initiator of the revival of the quality group and advocate of biodynamics. In the group have "revival of quality" are 152 wineries with the same idea together that regularly organize fairs for sixth and 7 April in Verona in Italy and a few weeks later in Sao Paulo in Brazil. A group that wants to make the Biodynamie known. Since late 2007, the Domaine des Enfants Sauvages also a member and later they are very proud. It is also very helpful for the sale. "Nicolas Joly regularly organizes trade fairs for the sale of smaller members and there are a large Number of customers who are invited. We were with in Verona, which was very good, we have met many importers, many of them were in top restaurants. has "

your message
While driving in the Land Rover I Nikolas explains his work philosophy. I've noticed not a lot of his comments because the travel of the type "Paris-Dakar" was. So I quote some key sentences from its website. "What agriculture concerns we need a culture largely prevented the detrimental effects of a balance between giving and taking to find a knowledge and respect for earth and cosmic interactions. Type in the wine is a waiver of monoculture and the creation of small-scale vineyards and more alive. Reconstruction of biodiversity, a reasonably limited exploitation of the earth, support of micro-and macro-organisms, a possible integration of vineyards in natural biological cycles. This creates a natural resistance to diseases of the wine without chemicals used. This waiver has apparently more manual work to follow. The result is an expressive wine as a medium between human and natural influences taught. »


Les enfants sauvages: the wines

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A terrace with only a vine

Domaine Le Casot of Mailloles
Alain Castex et Ghislaine Magnier
17 avenue de Puig del Mas Banyuls-sur-Mer


No computer
Last year I have a postal Letter from Alain Castex sent with information about his winery and its wines, a brochure of the association of natural wines and a few personal words from which it emerged that he has no computer. An independent wine without a computer? Such a person does not forget you. So we have with him and Ghislaine Magnier identified a meeting when we made a short trip to the region of Perpignan.

Banyuls-sur-Mer
Perpignan, and then the D 914 road to Argelès-sur-Mer, Port-Vendres, and suddenly we see the terraced vineyards covering the entire hillside. This does not look nice, it is scheuβlich, almost macabre. I thought to I feel when a bomb in Banyuls-sur-Mer had fallen, the earth is almost black, and all vegetation is gone. In the Black Sea, only the bare vines. Cut to the real sea which is both strong wind in a wonderful green shows. We drive in Banyuls-sur-Mer. We take a walk and everywhere we see wine cellar. Banyuls-sur-Mer, which is the wine. Later we head to Spain. Up to the limit everywhere the same picture as for the bomb, naked vines in a black sea. Shortly after the English border, the picture changes completely. There are also vineyards on terraces, but the Black Sea has been replaced by grass, bushes and trees. Why? The answer we get in the "Mas Estela". Núria Dalmau, the winemaker at the winery tells us that there has previously also looked like in France. Increasing tourism has meant that many vineyards were abandoned. People would rather have worked as a waitress in a bar or restaurant than with a hoe in the terraces of the vineyards. Excluding farm workers, there are no vineyards. In contrast, the Banyuls wine vineyards have continued their farms, but this situation could change to "the English way." I explain it.
The climate in this region in particular. Above all, it is the wind that surprises again and again. In "The weather in France "by Jacques Kessler and Andrée Cham Braud, the number of days with strong winds is indicated for Perpignan with 127 a year. This is very much in comparison, for example, Strasbourg is only 15 days with strong winds. On the other side Perpignan has 96 very heiβe days a year against 6 such days in Brest. The same applies to the number of hours of sunshine a year, which are for 2603 and for Perpignan Reims 1702nd schlieβlich For the rainfall: in Perpignan 63 cm to 147 cm in Biarritz, so it's a rather dry area. But that's not all. How can we read in the website of the municipality Banyuls there on the hills more than 6000 kilometers terraces with low walls and vines. The hills have a considerable slope, so strong that it with the tractor is not manageable. To combat the weed, which is in competition with the vine and home pest is the simplest solution is the mechanical tillage. As the tractor is not used must make the farm workers, with a hoe, weed for weed. The other solution is the chemical weed control. Since I have not seen a single Kräutchen I am assuming that the wineries have chosen this solution. The Ministry of Agriculture and Fisheries and the National Institute for the award of wine predicates confirm that impression in their study "quality wine AOC and the documents ". You write about Banyuls ". In this wine-growing region, the weed fight currently chemically re-planting of the vineyard is not without a drastic change in farming methods possible," The combination of climate and chemical weed control, the signs of a "English decide".

A English future
Alain Castex looks skeptical about the future of Banyuls-sur-Mer. The warming of the planet is shown here in a desertification "will win the desert. The floors are no longer able to store the water. Because the soils are fertilized synthetic apparatus of the vineyard immediately if heat and drought stress in water. He can not stay afloat. The ripening stops and they become soft and flabby. "The result is bad, the vines die. Alain speaks of up to 30% losses. And he? He cultivates the soil with a hoe, he fought the weeds with no chemistry.


Domaine Le Casot of Mailloles: Ode to the work

addition, he does not use synthetic fertilizers, only organic fertilizers. In short, he grows organic cultivation, and this method makes the plants resistant to drought. The proof: he has much less loss.
Desertification is not the only blow. Alain Castex expects that some chemicals to one day be banned. "There is still another problem. The groundwater is contaminated by the chemical products and there are too many damages. I do not like white marks they want to solve these problems. When the chemical products are prohibited, there is an economic problem. The wine is vital to Banyuls. "Alain is right. The Institute for the award of wine predicates (INAO) has counted in 2005, 1288, the winemakers are on slippery ground, and only 5 wineries who grow organically. The solution is so simple, 1283 wineries are converting to organic farming and follow the example of Alain. Alain breaks into laughter when I suggest this solution. "Die? No, never, to look at and say we were crazy. This is completely unzeitgemäβ what we're doing, how to edit the vineyard 40 years ago, and chop by hand. And furthermore, the does not pay financially. That is true, of course organic wine is expensive, but consumers are not willing to pay more for it. No give up, 80% of the wine. "And Alain? After the story by Ghislaine about their career out I hear that he will stand up.

The career
"Alain is from Toulouse, he was bad in school and has worked as a mechanic for the railroad. He later started his own business with his own workshop. He always spent his holidays at a relative in the Ariège had a small farm with a small vineyard, a few cows, fruit trees ... There, Alain has a taste for life on land and at some time he then decided that he wants to live in the country. He is then moved as a mechanic of farm machinery in the department of Aude. This was not an easy time. One day he asked a winery from Maisons, a small village, if he would not replace its workers, who went into retirement. He said yes. When he then saw how the work of the whole year in a pile of half-rotten grapes the tanks of the cooperative will disappear, he decided to become self-employed as winemaker. He has made a wine education and settled in 1981 in Jean Dave in the Corbières on a small vineyard, the Domaine Des Armouries. Like many, he has started with conventional cultivation. Step by step he has switched to organic farming. Because he no longer had to throw dirt all over the chemical on the ground. . A progressive evolution "


Domaine Le Casot of Mailloles: Alain Castex

" Then I dive into the story. I am the daughter of a farmer in Picardy, I know myself with wheat, beet and potatoes. I worked 15 years in Paris in the field of sports nutrition. Then I got fed up and wanted to return to the country. I sold everything in Paris and wanted someplace to the south. I stumbled upon an advertisement in the sold something in the Corbières was. I did not even know then where are the Corbières. I went there and had the house inspected, but I did not like it. At the end of the way I am then stuck with the car. I knocked on the door next best, it was that of Alain Castex and asked him to help me. He then pulled me out with his tractor. So we have met. Later I moved to Dave Jean, and I'm on the side with Alain the wine began. "
" We have tried to live in this village, but this has proven difficult out. I was a stranger and he had his whole family here, his friends. So we decided to go away from Dave Jean. Our dream was to Andalusia, where they make a auβergewöhnlichen wine. We went in the direction of Andalusia and made a break in Banyuls-sur-Mer. We have tasted the wine, we have learned to know a wine, we talked for hours and leaving, Alain has asked if there is to buy vineyards here. Perhaps, the winemakers answer, ask me again in three weeks. Well, we asked again and he said, is immediately now or never. We came and we fell in love with the vineyards and immediately bought 4 hectares. That was in November 1994, in December, we began to cut. It was a bit difficult with two wineries. And it was difficult to find a wine cellar. Just in time before our first harvest in 1995, we have found a disused Citroen mechanic who was einigermaβen suited as a wine cellar. "
Now they have 3.7 hectares per with a yield of 10 hectoliters per hectare. For 3 years they also have a vineyard of 1.7 hectares in Trouillas. There are no terraces. HOT STUFF is where the yield higher, 30 hectoliters per hectare. Everything is edited together by Alain, a farm worker in Ghislaine half day, sometimes interns, and friends.

Record
The balance of the Domaine Le Casot Mailloles is not easy to calculate. The costs are high and incomes are low. The costs are high because you're working as before: it cultivates the soil with a hoe and they repaired the terraces by hand. There is even a terrace on the only one vine grows.


Domaine Le Casot of Mailloles: the vineyards

No surprise at harvest, even this is done by hand. Addition they do not reap all some how. We sort the grapes in the vineyards. We cut them off, they look at and if they are good they are in the bucket. If the grapes are too dry or foul, we leave them, that's a Sysiphusarbeit, but it is necessary. Because we have to add no sulfite, the grapes have a high quality. "Because they make everything by hand with the economic efficiency is low (2.5 persons for the 5.1 hectares) and consequently, the cost high.
And the yield? If the income would be higher this could offset the higher costs. The average yield for the whole of France is 68 hectoliters per hectare (INAO, 2005). In Banyuls, the average yield is 30 hectoliters (in 2005 it was only 20 hectoliters after INAO) and Alain Castex scored 20 Hl. Consequently, this low yield can not nearly offset the higher costs. The calculation is simple: higher production costs and lower income yields a higher price for the customer. For Ghislaine it is not easy to charge higher rates. Expensive wines need a good marketing and good word of mouth. "This is not our strength, we are not good sellers. We need people to relieve us of this work, but we can not pay them nothing happens in this direction. "It is evident that marketing is of no strength to Casot Mailloles. They have no website, not even an email address. Even their advertising brochures are not very successful, for me it is really a sad sight, these seven small leaves. Very clear: No marketing, no more expensive wine. Relying on friends.

The friends
Alain et Ghislaine have customers who became friends and they have friends who were helpers. About Claude, physiotherapist in Cannes, customer, friend, helper. I met him on the terraces of the Casot Mailloles. There, the vineyard is very beautiful.


Domaine Le Casot of Mailloles: Claude

There are no black sea, but a rich vegetation. Claude, with a hoe in his hand, told me that he loves his holidays here spending, he told me why: "When the harvest, all the different smells, the grapes are all different, the mature, immature still, all this is true even when I work the floor, I feel the roots and all the smells of the earth. Later, I find this all in the wine then again, I smell it and I tasted it. This is unbelievable, this is magical. "
Claude is not the only one. "Most of our customers are friends and they come then to the wine harvest. Last year we had 36 pickers. "
Wines Casot Mailloles of excited people, I have the impression that a sworn Casot of Maillol become community.


Domaine Le Casot of Mailloles: the wines